I walk the earth in a dizzying state of sleepiness with a fogged right eye, I worry about pink eye, diabetes, ocular cancer if there should be such a thing. My back neck shoulders and head hurt an ache of an old man I tell myself.
I suffer from surfers neck. Went surfing for the first time with giddy glee. Laughy laughy laughies all the way in on my first wave. Merely a belly ride on a 12 foot baby blue fiber glass missile, with a trusty push from a friend and a wicked paddle I managed to capture a brief moment of bliss.
Waiting waiting waiting I caught another, this time 4 seconds 7 seconds 10 seconds 15 seconds 20 seconds WTF, I decided hey let me try to get up. Stepped up for 1 second, 1 second front of board "pearl dive" or something like that. like a very unbalanced see-saw. Came up from the forced belly flop entry into the foamy sea to prevent rocky knives below from ending me; camp up with boisterous belly laughs of fun till my face was tired.
tried to get one more wave, pummeled by the line of 20 surfers trying to get in; nearly crashed many times. pummeled by wave after wave in the shallows, rocks rocks rocks hitting knees, being pulled by friend to escape-pummeled again and again.
a voice behind me. "dave get on your board, get on your board. dave get on your board" caught in the headlights of the violent action of the white water foam of oncoming barrages of waves- barely I managed to hurl myself back onto the board.
it was agreed, we were done. But the fun was had. Catching a first wave was priceless- my mouth still hurts when I smile. My toes and knees still hurt when I pull on socks. My back and my shoulders still hurt when I put on pants. Exaggerated yes. Worth it= yes.
For those of you still reading this post. I would love to make some sort of verbal committment to return to writing on the daily. Cannot make it. Entrenched in a life -
Jay- your post will be up prior to Matt's arrival
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